FLUX Hawaii

Surfer Polls 2012

By John Hook

Surfers have inspired me so much. Just seeing these guys in videos made me really wanna get out there and have fun surfing. I thought I could return the favor, by turning them on to photography. Instead of taking pictures of my heroes at the recent Surfer Poll Awards, I put the camera in their hand and asked them to take a picture of me. I simply asked them, “Can I get you to take a picture?…” They were quick to say, “yes” and either hold up their award or strike a pose for me, then instead of taking their picture, I would add, “…take a picture, of me” and hand them my camera and smile and wait for them to take a picture of me by myself.

It was very fun to see the reactions of the surfers, some of them seemed confused, some of them laughed it off, and some of them really got into it and spent some time getting a quality shot. Some of my favorite “photographers” were: Jason Shibata, Freddy P, Sal Masekela, Joel Tudor, Rob Machado and David Rastovich.

Now I have 25 pictures of myself taken by heroes; that’s the award that I brought home.


Photo by Jason Shibata


Photo by Fred Patacchia



Photo by Sal Masakela



Photo by Chris Cote, Transworld Surf



Photo by Mark Healy



Photo by Joel Centeio



Photo by Keala Kennelly



Photo by Joel Tudor



Photo by Pat O’Connell



Photo by C.J. Hobgood



Photo by Mark Occhillupo



Photo by Dave & Crystal



Photo by Coco Ho



Photo by Zak Noyle



Photo by Jordy Smith



Photo by Rob Machado


Photo by Ian Walsh



Photo by Bethany Hamilton



Photo by Carissa Moore



Photo by Taj Burrow



Photo by Kelly Slater



Photo by Dane Reynolds



Photo by John John Florence



Photo by David Rastovich



Photo by Owen Wright

Mental

Big wave surfer and champion freediver Mark Healey



Text by Tiffany Iwalani Hervey
Image by Zak Noyle

Picture this life: One week is a five-star hotel, parties, helicopters and limo rides. The next is sleeping on a sidewalk outside a Greyhound Bus Station, not showering, and living off vending machine food. You go years without health insurance while enduring chipped teeth, a broken kneecap, a broken heel, cuts super-glued shut, and a blown-out eardrum – four times. Oh, and sometimes you ride on the back of sharks.

“It’s like Amazing Race meets Deadliest Catch meets touring with a rock band,” says pro surfer and champion freediver Mark Healey of his life chasing big waves.

“The goal is not just catching bigger and better waves but actually riding them – not just petroglyph-stance, ride to the end of the wave and claim it, but actually surfing it with style,” the Sunset Beach local contends. “People don’t really know what it takes to go surf these waves. You go through hell just getting there and when you finally get to the location, you have to figure out how to not die surfing the biggest waves you’ve ever seen.”

To survive all the logistics, barriers, bitter environments and unforgiving elements involved in the big wave game, Healey says the only way to get that mental edge is to truly love the act of doing it. “If you don’t really want it, it will eat you up,” he says.

Growing up freediving, which involves diving without any breathing apparatuses, on the North Shore of O‘ahu has given Healey a gift for that mental edge. He’s become well known for his spear fishing talents and competes in tournaments around the world. “Freediving is really good for your mind and your lung capacity,” explains the 29-year-old. “It disciplines your mind by knowing you can be consistently in uncomfortable physical situations and separate your mind from your body to make sure you stay calm and in control.”

Healey can freedive to a depth of 153 feet and harvests his own food regularly. He points out that spearfishing is the most selective way to catch fish, much more so than rod-and-reel or netting. While he doesn’t often catch fish bigger than him, Healey does encounter some that are not only bigger but rank higher on the food chain. He’s been riding on sharks and studying their behaviors the last couple years – even latching onto the fin of a great white for a spin.

Healey values how being part of the food chain in the ocean has helped him understand it better. “Freediving and learning about all the fish and habitats in the ocean makes you really connect to this ecosystem,” he says. “When we realize we are a part of something, we tend to value it and protect it more.”


Originally published in:

Visit innov8magazine.com to view the full issue.

The 9th Annual John Kelly Awards

On Saturday, December 3rd, the Surfrider Foundation’s O’ahu Chapter will present the 9th Annual John Kelly Environmental Achievement Awards. The celebration will be held at Waimea Valley Pavilion and will feature live music from the Intire Project and a few surprise guests. Tickets are $60 for general admission, $75 at the door and sponsor tables begin at $750. All proceeds will benefit Surfrider’s O’ahu Chapter and their efforts to preserve our coasts.

The ceremony is in honor of John Kelly, the legendary waterman and environmental leader who started Save Our Surf and fought to protect Hawai‘i’s coastlines from overdevelopment. Kelly and SOS helped to save 140 surf sites on O’ahu and around the state, while also stopping many destructive developments. Following in his wake, Surfrider’s O‘ahu Chapter has worked with other organizations to help preserve Pūpūkea-Paumalu (aka, Save Sunset Beach), Kaka‘ako Park and Waimea Valley.

TO VIEW JOHN KELLY’S LEGACY AND WORK WITH SAVE OUR SURF, CLICK HERE.

Former Lifetime Achievement Award winner Mark Cunningham will serve as the evening’s emcee. This year’s awardees have done inspiring work to bring about positive changes in their communities while also protecting our marine environment.

Cora Sanchez will be given the Lifetime Achievement Award for her efforts in helping to create the Pūpūkea-Waimea Marine Life Conservation District (MLCD). Cora was also a co-founder of Surfrider’s O‘ahu Chapter (along with former winner Peter Cole) and the Friends of Shark’s Cove. She has worked tirelessly to help protect the North Shore’s coastlines and “Keep the Country Country!”

The Kona Brewing Company will receive the Environmentally Friendly Hawai‘i-Based Company Award for their role in promoting sustainable practices at all their facilities and advocating for coastal preservation. The company helps organize the Kona Brewers Festival, which raises money for educational, environmental and cultural organizations. Along with installing solar and using recycled building materials at their facilities, Kona Brewing Company continues to support local efforts to protect beaches and coastlines across Hawai‘i.

Kyle Thiermann will be given the Professional Surfer Award for creating a five-part video series, Surfing for Change, to encourage individuals to change their life habits to help save the environment. Kyle’s video Where Is Away? Solving Plastic Pollution in 4 Minutes shows how wasteful and destructive single-use plastics are to the marine environment and encourages people to bring their own reusable bags and bottles.

The party will feature spirits from Barefoot Wine & Bubbly and a variety of local beers courtesy of Kona Brewing Company.

The John Kelly Environmental Achievement Awards
December 3
Waimea Valley Pavillion
Visit surfrider.com/oahu for more information or to purchase tickets.